glossary of health and beauty terms

Bach flower Remedies - Dr Edward Bach created a series of flower remedies to treat the imbalance of emotions he believed were the rot of many of his patient's diseases. His 38 remedies have formed the basis of all modern flower remedies. Each treats negative feelings, allowing the patient to turn these emotions into positive ones.

Bacteria - Usually single-celled organisms that inhabit every surface and medium on the planet. Those on and in humans are generally beneficial, acing as nature's ecologists to help preserve the biosphere as a viable environment in which to live. If they cause problems it is generally due to some man-made imbalance.

Balsam - Many of the gums and resins that seep from plants contain a percentage of essential oils. These resinous materials are called resinoids and balsams, such as Peru Balsam and Pine Tar.

Barrier cream - Before doing work with strong detergents or other harmful substances it is advisable to protect the hands. Wearing work gloves is not always feasible and a barrier cream is a useful alternative. The formulations can be silicone based or are a combination of lanolin, soft paraffin and kaolin.

Beeswax - One of the oldest raw ingredients used in cosmetic preparations. Traditionally it has been used as an emulsifier for water-in-oil emulsions and it is now also used to regulate a formulation's consistency. Beeswax is used as part of the wax composition of solid paste products such as creams, lipsticks and pomades.

Bentonite - Also known as Bentonite clay, Bentonite is used to regulate the viscosity and suspension properties of a cosmetic formulation. It also acts as an overall formula stabiliser because its water absorption capabilities allow it to form a gelatinous mass. It is used in facemasks because of its properties as a suspending agent.

Benzoin - A fragrant essential oil with bactericidal, anti-irritation, and anti-itching properties. It is an excellent ingredient for reducing skin redness and is also a preservative of fats.

Beta waves - one of the four main types of brainwaves. Beta waves are found in our normal waking state when our conscious mind is active. The lowest vibration of beta waves is 14hz with the average normal, waking vibration being at 21hz. A person suffering from a state of high anxiety can show a beta wave as high as 34Hz. This knowledge is put to use in eastern mind therapies.

Beta-hydroxy complex - A mixture containing chemically modified natural extracts, synthetic and semi-synthetic compounds to exfoliate the skin. They are also known as skin peelers because they dissolve and remove the outer layer of the skin.

Binder - Often very large molecules (polymers) which are added to solid or very thick cosmetics to hold the mixture together, give it solidity and help the cosmetic spread on the skin and remain there.

Biochemical - The chemistry of life forms. There are thousands of natural chemical reactions occurring in cells at any given moment.

Biodegradable - If cosmetics contain microbes, which attempt to break down the chemical, that make up the product, they are said to be biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Most modern surfactants are biodegradable, but early petroleum-derived detergents circa 1950 were not.

Biofeedback - A process raising consciousness of body processes in order to gain some measure of control over these involuntary activities, such as heart rate, body temperature etc.

Biological additive - These are cosmetic ingredients that are derived from animals or plants and are used for a variety of reasons. Examples of animal products include mink oil extract, elastin extracted from mammals, keratin from skin, hair and nails and collagen taken from fibrous tendons and ligaments.

Bio-stimulation - A form of light therapy which uses polarised light to treat patients without drugs. Light therapy is known to positively affect mood by triggering the hormone melatonin.

Blackhead - The blackheads or comedones which characterise acne are plugs of a mixture of keratin and sebum which block the pores of follicles. The result is a complexion punctuated by the tiny black dots.

Bleaching agent - Used to lighten the colour of the hair or skin. They are often potent chemicals and must be used with caution. Dental bleach is activated by UV light to whiten discoloured teeth. Hair is commonly bleached using a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and a mild alkali such as ammonia. This mixture can also be used to remove marks from fingernails. Dark patches on the skin can also be treated with a bleaching agents.

Botanical additive - Plant extracts that are added to cosmetics for a variety of reasons. Some are alternatives to synthetic ingredients or have a therapeutic function. Plants also provide natural fragrance and may contribute to the colour and appearance of a product.

Brilliantine - Hair cream, brilliantine, spray-gloss and styling gel all use a film of oil to control the hair. Brilliantine is a straightforward oily dressing. Liquid brilliance is usually mineral oil or isopropyl myristate or a mixture of both with colour and perfume added.

Buffer - A mixture of chemicals, usually two, that can resist changes in levels of acidity or alkalinity and therefore control the ph in personal care products. This counter-acts the unwanted acidity or alkalinity that can irriate skin and eyes and produces a neutral PH.

Bunion - Protrusion of the big toe joint. Covering this is a fluid sac, which gives the joint protection. When the protruding joint presses against the shoe, hard skin grows over it to form a corn or callous. Prolonged pressure can lead to an inflamed or infected bursa leading to a condition known as bursitis.

Body Sugaring - Hair removal process said to date from the time of Cleopatra.

Body Wrap - Strips of cloth soaked in herbal teas and cocooned around the body. Also called herbal wrap.

Brush & Tone - Dry brushing of the skin, intended to remove dead layers and impurities while stimulating circulation. This is one of many exfoliation techniques used as a pre-treatment for mud and seaweed body masks. The body is brushed in invigorating, circular motions to remove dead skin, followed by the application of moisturizing lotion that leaves the skin silky smooth, alive, and glowing.